This week I review Mother Wolf, the Roman restaurant from pasta maestro Evan Funke that is a Hollywood production in every sense. I lead the piece with a celebrity sighting — something I’ve never done before and never expect to do again — but this one had too much spectacle swirling around it to leave out. Go for the opulent 150-seat dining room, go to breathe in the rare air of garlic and entertainment industry power, go for the spaghettone alla gricia.When a restaurant has this much scale and action, it’s impossible to cram every observation into the review.
